build is slightly different from the Oriole. The main
difference is in the Front Panel.
the Oriole, this Pine Front Panel is flushed with the
box. This is what a normal loudspeaker looks like. It
is not a problem if CNC machines are used to cut and align
all the panels. With that kind of precision, it is easy
for the Front Panel to have a separate finish.
without the benefit of CNCs, it would be very difficult
to align exactly the front panel with the sides of the
method is to firstly cut my Front Panel slightly oversized
and have it bonded to the box. Once the glue is set, I
use a router with a Flush Trim Bit to remove the overhang
wood. This will flush trim the Front Panel edges to all
the sides of the box perfectly. I then follow this with
a Round Over Edge Forming Bit to round the sharp edges,
giving a softer look.
strenghten the Front Panel and to provide more surface
area for bonding, an MDF substrate is used. It's a bit
more work but I highly recommend it. The Front Panel is
the weakest panel in a speaker box. The MDF substrate
will enhance the strength considerably.
that the raw box is completed, it is ready for finishing.
the Starling, I applied a single Gel Stain on all the
panels (Front Panel and the Box sides). This is the easiest
approach. If the Front Panel is to have a different stain
from the box, there is a real danger of the stains bleeding
into each other. It can be done but I will have to mask
off one while staining the other. I won't even consider
it if I'm using oil stains.
have the Front Panel stained with a different color from
the box, please refer to the Oriole
build. You will also find a detailed description of
how to finish a loudspeaker there.
the final coat, I brushed on a Semi-Gloss Polyurethane
Clear Topcoat. One coat, straight from the can.